Snowing up top, raining down below 2pm

The storm did come dumping metres and metres of snow. The team have delayed their Camp 2 acclimatisation rotation and have made a quick escape to Manaslu base camp. Unfortunately as it snows up top, it is raining down below. But at least they’re dry inside warm spacious tents and are eating well.

Anders is particularly tucking into Rabin’s rice and chicken curries. He must be trying out the Sherpa diet to fuel himself up the mountain. The weather is not looking too good for the next few days. All the other expeditions have regrouped at base camp as well. They must wait for the snowing to stop and for the sun to compact the fresh snow down, otherwise the avalanche risk will be too high.

Our mountaineers are used to this waiting game. They have mates in other camps to socialize with, movies, books and the ever faithful deck of cards. The happiest person is Rabin the cook, pleased he has people to feed again.

First sleep at Manaslu Camp 1 5700m 12pm

Tonight is the team’s first real sleep on Manaslu at Camp 1, 5700m. They climbed up today in good conditions and are feeling good. It’s not busy at Camp 1 which is a nice change.

Tomorrow they’ll head up to Camp 2 and drop back down to Camp 1 to sleep. Then again, the next day go up to Camp 2 but stay overnight to slowly acclimatise to the lower levels of oxygen at high altitude. Finally the team will drop to base camp to rest up. The route between Camp 1 and Camp 2 trails through seracs.

Not as intimidating as the Khumbu ice fall but nevertheless careful climbing and swiftness is required. It’s presently lightly snowing which may be the beginnings of the anticipated front. If there’s too much snow, the team will hunker down and wait it out.

In Manaslu base camp 10am

The team is well settled in Manaslu base camp at 4800m, which is shrouded in mist and daily afternoon rain. Today they enjoyed clear views of Manaslu once above the clouds during their first rotation to Camp 1 (5700m). The climbing was good but busy! Manaslu has attracted huge numbers this year with teams rerouting Cho Oyu expeditions to this normally lesser climbed mountain.

Base camp also feels like Everest base camp with teams arriving every day. Still, this should support fast climbing and fast route setting. A front is expected tomorrow so the team may have to keep low the next few days. Hopefully they’ll be able to do their puja ceremony tomorrow.

Meanwhile, they’re relaxing, socializing with friends from other teams and keeping healthy.

Ah there she is, the ol’ girl Manaslu 8am

Finally the clouds have cleared a bit to offer the team first views of Manaslu, she’s a beauty. Manaslu is locally known as the Japanese mountain, in reference to the various Japanese teams who attempted different routes and the successful first ascent between 1952 to 1956.

The team have rested 3 nights now at 3600m in Samagaon acclimatizing. They’ve taken short day walks around the village visiting monasteries and even dropped into a local wedding. The entire village and more appeared to be in attendance!However, it’s time to move to base camp today and time to start the real work towards their mission. Base camp is a 4 hr steep ascent from Samagaon to 4800m. They pass a beautiful glacier lake enroute.Tomorrow they’ll conduct a Buddhist puja (religious ceremony) to request the mountain spirits for safe passage and success. The day after the climb towards Camp 1 begins. HimEx have already set the route to Camp 2 so this season should be fast.

Manaslu team in Samagaon 2pm

Finally in Samagaon, the last village before base camp! The team is ecstatic that tomorrow is a rest day…well kind of a rest day with only a short day hike around the village planned. The last few days of steep trails, in rain, heat and increasing altitude have been tiring. The team will acclimatise here now for a few days and rest up before moving to base camp only a few hours walk from the village.

Samagaon has around 102 families and only 4 lodges, not quite Namche, but it’s the Namche of the Manaslu region (3600m). It certainly has the feel of Expedition Central with helicopters buzzing daily dropping off climbers and supplies, and pitched tents in fields.

Unfortunately for our climbers, there’s a cards playing (i.e. gambling) ban enforced in the village. Our team are keen not to be fined by their strict Buddhist hosts so it’s early bed and no marriage playing tonight.

Wet wet wet to Manaslu 2pm

The team are comfortably resting in Jaghat…relaxing after cooling showers and finally dry shoes. Yesterday was a bit of a wash out. In fact, quite a wash out. Two Sherpas had to drop their loads to beat a descending landslide yesterday. The group passed the landslide scene today and the gear is buried!

They are sharing the trail with 3 other expedition groups, interestingly, including a large mainland Chinese group who also failed to obtain climbing permits for Cho Oyu…The only lodge in town was packed and super crazy with 4 groups but today in Jaghat, Himalayan Ascent are enjoying the peace of a lodge to themselves.

The trekking days have been long, around 8 hr through rain, rivers, many waterfalls and Gurung villages. They’re covering around 25-30 km a day and should reach Samagaon in 3 days, the last settlement before base camp. Everyone is feeling strong and healthy, and also finally relieved to be at 1500m so the temperature should begin to cool off now.

First day of trekking to Manaslu 1pm

It is hot and humid! Bizarre to think that the team will be freezing and wearing down suits in a few weeks time, when it’s so hot at the moment.

It’s rainy and hot, and at all opportunities when passing waterfalls, they jump in! In the middle of monsoon, as it is everywhere in Nepal, it is green, lush and misty in the mornings. A fellow climber to Manaslu described it as a scene from ‘Jurassic Park’, wild, mysterious and from another time. After 7 hr of walking, they are now resting for the night in Khursani bari (‘chili garden’, although no chili plants can be seen).

Day 1 of trek to Manaslu base camp 10am

Day 1 was a bumpy journey on a 4WD which got bogged a few times in the muddy roads, and then a switch over to a bus to Arughat.

The team are tired and hot (humid like an oven) but excited, since they’ve bumped into old climbing friends. It’s going to be a fun evening exchanging adventures… perhaps even a game of ‘marriage’. Tomorrow the team will walk about 6 hours following the Budhi Gandaki river.

ClimbMandu

Himalayan Ascent were out in full force at the 1st ClimbMandu rock climbing competition in Kathmandu, Nepal. Senior guide Ankaji competed in the lead competition and made it to the finals, he just missed out on a top 3 ranking but it was a fun climb.

Lakpa and Sumit just went to the event to support Ankaji and were talked into signing up for the Dyno competition. It was an intense 2 minutes of constant Dyno leaps to the hold, some added height and youth would have scored the pair a ranking. However, Sumit and Lakpa stand a good chance if there is ever a Masters competition in Nepal. Guide Jangbu provided technical support as part of the Nepal Mountain Guide Association who co-sponsored the event. Check out more photo on our Facebook Himalayan Ascent Page: http://www.facebook.com/HimalayanAscent?ref=hl

Everest 2012 update and Everest One Charity wrap up

The Himalayan Ascent Spring season is fast drawing to a close. The fundraising team of “Everest One” for Sharon Cohrs made a successful round trip to EBC and back. Thirteen Australian trekkers joined Sharon and Allan for Sharon’s “Climbing For a Cause” charity for a 16 day trip into the Khumbu valley.

All 13 trekkers made it to EBC, where they spent 2 days visiting the Himalayan Rescue Association camp, walking up to the ice fall and soaking in the EBC atmosphere. Sharon and Allan are keen to bring back another group next year so stay tuned to her website for updates about this(www.climbingforacause.com.au). More detailed news about the trip can also be found there.

Today is potentially summit day for our Everest climber, Pasang Chutti. We should have news anytime soon. Yesterday, senior Himalayan Ascent guide, Ankaji Sherpa was the first to stand on the summit in 2012!! He was part of the rope fixing team and led most of the route from the balcony. Ankaji is one exceptional climber and we are proud to call him a member of Himalayan Ascent! This Everest season, however, he has the honour of being a member of a National Geographic/The North Face Expedition on the West ridge with Conrad Anker. Ankaji is aiming for a double summit when he rejoins Conrad’s team for their summit bid in a couple of days.

We’re keen to have everyone back in Kathmandu safely at the end of Everest season. Then we can wrap up and focus on the coming Fall season of August-November 2012, which includes Cho Oyu/Shishapangma and Ama dablam.
Sumit . .